Category Archives: DIY

Do-It-Yourself

DIY Lighting Mods with Foamies and Velcro

I’ve previously noted that if you’re into amateur studio photography then foamies are your friend. Now, even more stuff to do with foamies…

For all of these mods, I used several types of black and white foamies, some with sticky backs and some with out. These are readily available in craft shops and for only a few dollars a pack. I typically buy the 9″ x 12″ sheets.

You’ll also want to get the Scotch velcro tape. You can get it in 1″ wide rolls with each package containing a roll of the hook and a roll of the catch.

Now, onto the mods…

The Speed Strap

Now, admittedly, these are pretty cheaply bought, but since I had all the material I needed, I made my own. It’s actually quite simple:

1. Measure your flash circumference and then add a couple of inches for elbow room. Mine is about 11¾” with the extra room.

2. Measure out and cut a strip of foamie that’s 1″ wide and about 1″ less than your previous measurement long. If you have a slicer or guillotine, it’s a lot easier, but a straight edge and Xacto knife is also good. Resort to scissors if you must, but don’t run with them. Anyways, the foamies compress and they end up providing excellent non-slip traction on your flash head, hence the reason we’re using them here.

3. Measure out and cut a strip of velcro tape, hook side, that matches the flash circumference you measured in step 1.

4. Remove the sticky back off the velcro and attach it to the foamie strip from step 2 with one end lining up evenly. This will leave just over an inch of the velcro hanging on the other end.

5. Now, using the catch portion of the velcro tape, attach just over an inch to the sticky back of the dangling hook velcro.

Done! You now have a speed strap. What’s it good for? Well, for attaching the remaining goodies, that I’m about to describe, to your flash. Anyways, here’s the outcome:

The Snoot Revisted

The last time I did a snoot, as shown in the article linked above, I was very happy with the outcome. The only thing I didn’t really like was that the second, white, foamie made it too stiff. However, it still works, but I wanted some snoots that worked with my new speed strap. Have a look at the sample images following the steps before you start cutting, it may make my instructions a little easier to follow.

1. Cut a white, non-sticky, foamie so that it is 12″ x 5″ in size.

2. Cut a strip of the hook velcro to about a 4″ length, precision isn’t that critical. Remove the backing and attach to one end of foamie, tight to the top, thus leaving about an inch at the bottom.

3. Cut three strips of the catch velcro to about a 5″ length. Flip over the foamie and attach all three, side-by-side, to the end opposite the hook velcro.

4. Cut a fourth strip of about 2″ and then cut down the middle, length-wise giving you two 2″ x 0.5″ strips. Cut one of those in half to get two 1″ x 0.5″ strips.

5. Flip the foamie back over so that the hook velcro side is showing. Attach the longer of the above strips at the bottom and center. Then attach the two smaller strips at the far ends.

Here’s a sample, but note that I used black foamies. Writing this article gave me an epiphany that I should have used white for the snoots, it doesn’t matter what the exterior colour is as long as the interior is white. Oh well, as a result, I had an extra step that involved Avery labels.

Now, you can repeat the above instructions, but add 3″ to the 4″ and 5″ lengths to get an 8″ snoot. That matches you up nicely with Honl snoot options. By the way, reflective foamies are also available in silver and gold, amongst other colours. Ah, the possibilities!

The Barn Door

Sometimes you don’t need, or want, the light tightening effect of the snoot, you just need to keep the flash from causing flair in your image. For that, you need the foamie barn door… This is very simple:

1. Cut a couple of 9″ x 5″ black, non-sticky, foamies and a couple of 9″ x 5″ white, sticky foamies. This gives you a couple of “doors” to work with and, it’s so easy, you can make more… You can also make them narrower or shorter, experiment to fit your needs.

2. Pair up each black with a white and stick them together, trim as you need.

3. Attach a 1″ strip of catch velcro on one end of each “door” and you’re done.

Note, I used the two sheets of each just make it a little more rigid. Here’s a shot of one on the flash:

The Bounce Card

Very similar to the barn door above, the bounce card is really easy to make:

1. Cut a non-sticky black foamie to about 6.5″ x 9″.

2. Cut a white, sticky, foamie to about 4.5″ x 8″ and attach to the black foamie, centered horizontally and flush to one end.

3. Cut a 2″ strip of the catch velcro, then split that length wise. Cut one the pieces of that in half.

4. Attach the 2″ x 0.5″ strip at the bottom (on the black foamie) centered horizontally and flush to the end.

5. Attach the 1″ x 0.5″ strips to the far sides at the bottom. It’s going to look very similar to the snoot.

Here’s a shot of it on my flash:

That’s my foamie round-up. I have a few more ideas in mind, but I haven’t entirely squared the ‘how’ in my head yet. By the way, the some total cost of the above, not counting time, was about $20 worth of stuff. You can buy all of these, ready made, but I assure you that you’ll pay a great deal more. Besides, it was fun.

Foamies and Photography

Foamies are basically craft paper made of foam, about 2 mm thick, that is easily cut and shaped as you need them. So, now that you know what they are, why should you care about them in photography?

Well, for the do-it-yourselfer, you should care a lot. Gear is expensive and, while it’s nice to have some of it, not a lot of us can justify the costs for a hobby. Many of us, in fact, would rather spend the cash on lenses or camera upgrades. So, one of the ways to cut your costs is to make it yourself and foamies are a great resource for that.

For example, I’ve made a snoot out of foamies and velcro tape. A snoot, by the way, is a device fitted over the flash that is used to constrain the light to a more narrow beam. In my case, I used two foamies, a black one and a white one with a sticky back.

1. Using a measuring tape, I measured the circumfrance of my flash head, added a little bit for flexibility and then cut black foamie to fit. On one edge, I put the hook part of the velcro, on the other the catch part, done so that the foamie can wrap.

2. Next, I peeled the backing off the white sticky foamie and fitted it onto the black piece for the inside. Then I just trimmed the edges.

3. Finally, I added some of the catch velcro to the far end of the snoot for attaching gels (I made a gel holder using some plastic packaging, worked rather well).

This is the result (pardon my lack of editing and white balance):

That’s not too bad considering a snoot will normally cost more than $40 CDN in the store and this cost about $5 (with lots left over). In addition, with foamies, I can make a number of snoots in various sizes and in various colours for the interior to colour the light. I can also use it as a bounce card.

You’ll notice from the above shots that the background is seamless. That too is a result of foamies, a roll to be exact. I was very happy to discover that they make rolls of this stuff about 5 feet long and 3.5 feet wide, nicely fitting onto my macro table. The texture is very good for a backdrop and, at $9.99 for the roll, I’m not too worried if something spills on it. Besides, I discovered that a little rubbing alcohol on a J-cloth cleans it up nicely. I have a couple of rolls of the white and a roll of the black. Other colours are available, but my local art store never seems to have them.

I doubt you’ll see professional photographers running around with rolls of foamies or a foamie snoot, but I’m not a pro and, if you’re looking to me for advice, you probably aren’t either. Net effect, why pay hundreds for what you can get for less than $30?

So, add foamies to your collection of DIY tricks, you won’t regret it.

DIY Studio Light Table for Product/Macro Photography

You can buy these, of course, but for about $100 (give or take), you can build one yourself. Since I’m on vacation, I decided to spend the time to build one and then share the process on my site (which is remarkably un-grumpy for me).

I’m not a professional photographer, so the idea of spending hundreds or thousands of dollars for a lighting table for product/macro work just doesn’t make a lot of sense to me. There are, of course, plenty of examples of this sort of thing from the DIY perspective, but none were quite what I was looking for, so I rolled my own and now I’m posting the details if you want to give it a go.

First, materials:

  • 11 1″x2″x3′ pine boards.
  • 2 1″x2″x6′ pine boards
  • 10 1.5″ L-brackets
  • 8 0.5″ L-brackets
  • 32″x48″ clear plexiglass (the most expensive part)
  • Lots of smaller wood screws with a head large enough for the brackets
  • Clamp lights, as desired, for lighting from the sides or underneath
  • Black or white curtain (mine has black on one side, white on the other)

I chose clear plexiglass because it gave me the most options overall. When I want to light from underneath, I can still have the black or white of the curtain provide a consistent background. If I need “infinite” white, or another colour for that matter, I can lay the curtain over the plexiglass or other fabric as needed. All in all, it seems to be a good option.

So, now all you need to do is build the frame:

1. Build the base. Using 4 of the smaller pieces of wood, create a basic box structure with the 1.5″ brackets. This will provide some additional stability. You could, optionally, with some more wood build cross braces as well, though it doesn’t seem necessary.

2. Use 2 of the smaller pieces of wood to build the front “legs”. I used the 0.5″ brackets and then an additional bracing screw to make it solid. Note, the legs are on the inside of the base with the wide side facing the sides of the table.

3. Use the 2 larger pieces of wood to build the back “legs” again with the same brackets and positioning as #2 above.

4. Build the upper table portion with 3 pieces of the smaller wood basically the same as the base (minus the back). Note well: this is 3 pieces, the front and two sides as we don’t want a back piece visible in any shots.

5. Attach the upper table to the “legs” so that the edges of the frame are even with the tops of the 3′ legs. Use a level, if you have one, to position this as it makes it easier. As does, for that matter, an extra set of hands or some clamps (I used clamps). I used the 0.5″ L-brackets for this as well, though there is some small spill-over when attaching to the rear legs.

6. Using one of the small pieces of wood and the 1.5″ brackets, create a lower back brace about 20″ from the ground with the wide side facing out and behind the legs. This should be high enough to be useful and low enough to stay out of the picture (though you can drape your backdrop over it).

7. Using the last of the small pieces of wood and 1.5″ brackets, create an upper back brace about 1′ from the top of the rear legs with the wide side facing out and behind the legs.

8. Position the plexiglass so that the ends are about center on the front “table” brace and the upper back brace. I used small screws to hold it at the front and then drilled a couple of holes at the top and screwed the top into place to keep it firm.

9. Have a beer. Okay, this step is optional, but it worked for me.

So, the beauty of this, because it is wood, it’s very easy to attach other things to it such as lights, diffusers, reflectors, etc. I was originally going to do this using PVC pipes, but the connector options just weren’t there and, to be honest, I’m kind of happy that it worked out this way. At the very least, I have to imagine that it’s a little tricky to clamp lamps onto round tubes…

Here’s some shots of the finished product (excuse the basement mess). Bear in mind that I’m shooting the stand, not using it, so the reflections are from ceiling lights that I would normally have off before doing any work.

Now, here’s some shots using the newly created table: